Nothing like those floating-on-stew versions. These are delicate morsels of pork and leek wrapped in thin dough “skins” and steamed for the people of Chongqing to eat on their way to another busy working day – and so much healthier than our traditional English fry-up. You can see (https://youtu.be/rTcgbQwDLsw) my very poor efforts to make them despite the help of a dumpling professional.
Wang Yi, our hostess for the day, introduced her aunt, Yinyishu, who has worked in a baozi shop for over 25 years. It is tough work that starts at 3 in the morning as her customers want their breakfast at about 6.00 a.m.
The dough for the Jiaozi dumplings is just flour and water with a pinch of salt while yeast is added for the baozi version. The fillings are very similar: finely minced pork, ginger and lotus root pieces plus leek in the jiaozi and spring onion in the baozi.
The shaping of the dumplings was the difficult part. The risen baozi dough was the most straightforward: small circles of dough rolled thinner all around the edge and then simply folded in half over the filling and pinched closed. But the jiaozi confounded everyone: the same small circles with thinner edges that were somehow rolled and pinched over the middle of the filling while the whole dumpling was rotated in the other hand. They were just too soft and delicate for my sense of touch to decipher. Yinyishu couldn’t stand my ineptitude and finished the lot! Even Julia, from the local Rotary Club who was helping with translation, had difficulty.
And further thanks to Hanying who allowed us all in to her kitchen for the dumpling class. Her apartment is in one of a group of blocks surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens in Chongqing, the largest city in the world. It was a privilege to be in her home and to hear the children playing outside, neighbours chatting on a bench in the sun and the soft buzz of traffic in the distance. Her kitchen was completely familiar in layout and design – every feature I’d recognise from my own but just tiny to match the smaller stature of Chinese people. I felt rather like a giant looming over her and could sit on the work surfaces as if they were high-stools.
The whole day was a perfect experience of life in developing China: the modern vibrant environment alongside cuisine that still has all the traditional skills and flavours.
Imagine your very first cookery demonstration: not even in a kitchen; supported by a chef who barely speaks English; an audience of the most powerful women in the world’s largest city. Daunting or what? I desperately fell back on the tried-and-tested Victoria sponge but with a little twist to make it my own (https://youtu.be/0H0jPBwpD1M).
I was in Chongqing in China with one of the top chefs, Frank, at the prestigious InterContinental Hotel. We were providing the entertainment for the regular lunch of the International Women’s Group. This was a truly impressive gathering of the key female influencers in this vast city of 37 million people: Consuls general heading up the local representation of their national embassies; leaders in business and academia; my Rotary Club sponsors; movers and shakers in heels. And this was my initiation audience so I chose something hopefully foolproof and quintessentially English.
Frank and super-Beverages and Food Manager, Sam, did all the hard work. All I had to do was crack the eggs and turn on the mixer. I just tossed raspberries in to the mix and let Frank carry it away to the oven. Hardly testing or high cuisine!
My mini-sponges looked suitably simple alongside the accompaniment Frank had produced: a delectable chocolate stiletto shoe each garnished with fruit. He was just showing off and definitely caught the attention of the whole group. It was clearly the difference between a truly professional chef and yours truly – but did he have to rub it in so hard?
Frank and I had a great time working together – I just wish we had been able to do more. But the lunch was another chance to spread the word that disability needn’t be the end of the world – just give us a chance to show what we can do.
Cooking alongside another young blind woman in China, together we learned a classic chocolate Mousse during a session with Intercontinental chef, frank (https://youtu.be/wwNtojsbuuU ).
Lisa was intrigued by the talking thermometer and I was too by the practical demonstration as to how altitude makes such a difference to the boiling temperature of liquids. Once the milk had boiled, it was cooled by adding chocolate and then eggs until the whipped cream could be folded through when the mix was at 30 degrees centigrade. Once cooled and set, the mousse can be served with our very easy strawberries steeped in orange juice, a little sugar and a splash of optional orange liqueur.
We had been trying to use very simple processes with a few ingredients that weren’t too expensive or strange for these two young women with virtually no kitchen experience. And the Intercontinental team put together a parcel of other western dishes for them to take home, share and learn more flavours.
Lisa was very tiny and, although trained as a medical masseuse, is just too small to practice her skill. Instead, she is trying to generate income through her handicrafts. She has some limited residual vision so doesn’t use a white cane and is wildly independent.
It was a time to treasure: the two blind women had been with us at the Intercontinental for lunch and then cooking in to the early evening. They were enthusiastic and self-confident – great examples of how education and training could equip them for life. Alongside the Intercontinental chefs were wonderful in their support, patience and empathy. It seemed to me that both the chefs and young women were having a completely new experience cooking together: finding that food was a force for breaking down barriers. I tried to stand back and give them time to learn about each other’s lives.
Two young blind masseuses spent an afternoon with the top Intercontinental chefs and me in Chongqing, China. We were all trying to learn from each other: some basic cooking, Chinese medical massage and living with blindness. Head chef Jack taught us to use our sense of touch to test how well a beef steak is cooked (https://youtu.be/BvIuYBQwehI). This very simple professional tip is perfect for blind people anywhere – and anyone else too.
During our time in the city, I learned that other blind people weren’t very obvious. Perhaps they don’t get out much or perhaps they tend not to use white canes. Either way, my videographer Toby didn’t spot many during our stay in the world’s largest city with a population of about 37 million. There would have been many citizens with different levels of visual impairment arising from all the conditions that are recognised world-wide: many would be age-related, others linked to past malnutrition in this country of massive economic growth.
Medical massage is a key work opportunity for young people who attend the local blind school to gain the necessary qualifications. They then practice in a massage clinic that is also their home. The patient couches become their beds at night and an “auntie” comes in to cook their meals. Living and working in the same place obviously has lots of advantages but possibly less chance of learning how to cook. My thanks to the Rotary Club of Chongqing for bringing us all together as part of their initiative to support local visually impaired people.
Like me, the blind girls probably hadn’t had much time in a professional kitchen in a prestigious hotel but we all managed to enjoy the opportunity together rather than being over-awed by the location.
The two girls quickly learned from Jack. He’d probably also had very little experience of blind people in his kitchen but was wonderful with all three of us: patient and empathetic, caring and courteous. I just stood back while the rapport developed between him and the blind girls: they were all completely immersed with their experience of each other.
For the beef dish, Jack showed Wan Lin a safer way of handling her knife and how to toss the pan of vegetables. Alongside, we had Julia and food and Beverages Manager, Sam, both translating plus Toby shooting video and a small audience. From this chaos Jack still managed to produce an excellent dish – what a professional!
And the trick with steak: the muscle at the base of your thumb becomes harder as you fold your thumb and fingers: thumb only – rare; two fingers folded- medium; three – well-done – but the video explanation is probably easier!
Next time, we use taste to refine a simple salad.
Vegan sausage rolls have been hitting the headlines and national news in the UK. Not just very successful PR but an echo of my Christmas party discussions: a fellow guest had given up eating all animal products because of the environmental impact of methane, de-forestation to increase grazing land, the chemical inputs to factory farming and more. The debate about eating less meat to save the planet is hotting up. If you want to try a half-way house, see the tofu dish I learned in China (https://youtu.be/j4QuNQxxyi0) which cuts the amount of meat but keeps the flavour with a little beef.
Professional chef Tony showed me how to transform pale, rather tasteless chewy cubes of bean curd in to a typical Chongqing dish: Lao LAN Ma or Sichuan-Style Braised Spicy and Hot Tofu. There was a little simmering and frying plus lots of the strong flavours so popular in the local cuisine. The beef (so finely minced that it was nearly a paste), some “chicken powder” similar to a crumbled stock cube plus chilli and the famous local pepper made all the difference. And Head chef Jack couldn’t resist taking charge of us both.
If we want to cut our meat consumption, there are lots to learn from the kitchens of China and other countries if we can be open-minded to alternatives that have already stood the test of time and satisfied millions of people. And there are new ideas emerging all the time: already, scientists are trying to “grow their own meat” in the laboratory.
The key question remains: will those meat substitutes bring enough profit for the food industry? There need to be alternatives that grab the taste buds of the mass market if whole areas of food production are going to change or even end. We aren’t there yet but tofu has a part to play – even if you don’t have the special Chinese sauce made from fermented broad beans that added to this dish.
And all thanks to the Chongqing Rotary Club that made this visit possible – next time, we are cooking with two of the local blind women assisted by the Club.
For years/decades, I’ve yearned for one of those pointed oval tins for raised game pies (the type with clips at either end). Just one of those longings for a classic piece of cooking equipment that carries breaths of nostalgia and tradition. When I had the chance, I’ve scoured antique fairs without success but my longing was finally more than satisfied this Christmas by friends Sue and Joan. Heaven knows why these tins are so wildly expensive!
My own version of hot water pastry to make the game raised pie included: strong white bread flour added to the ordinary plain; rubbing in butter; adding lard dissolved in hot water. A quarter of the pastry was set aside for the pie lid and the rest went in the tin. I pressed it out and gradually raise it up the sides. Just like trying to mould hot greasy and slithery plasticine! It kept oozing back down the sides of the tin and gathering at the bottom –it would have been better allowing it to cool more so it didn’t sag like Nora batty tights!
Pork gave bulk to the filling: sausage meat and mince seasoned with mustard powder and ground allspice. Pork is also important in adding a little fat to keep the game moist – in this case, partridge (skinned and bones removed) marinaded with a little white wine.
By the time I’d struggled with the pastry, rather roughly layered in the meat and topped off with the lid, I was running out of cooking time. But, even though I had to switch the oven off 30 minutes early, leaving it in the residual heat did the trick. I confess that one side was a bit scorched (too near the gas), I failed to do the egg glaze and the jellied stock added later didn’t reach all the parts required or set firmly enough – it sounds like a series of disasters. But the pastry was the best I’ve ever made and the filling was deliciously moist. Definitely an experiment to be repeated in rather slower time to do more justice to that excellent tin.
Meanwhile, if you are looking for another classic pork dish, look no further than this week’s video (https://youtu.be/s9ssUcVIIto) which features the first of three versions of sweet and sour spare ribs from my time in Chongqing in China. This was the recipe from the professional chef with two more homely versions to come.
Chongqing is the largest city in the world – and the most exhilarating. Rather than me trying to describe it without sight, my intrepid videographer and nephew, Toby, explored the excitement, dynamism and visual magic in his video (https://youtu.be/s8Y7PXLpmvM) cityscape. This marks the start of the second leg of our Holman adventure: China, Australia and Malawi all coming over the next few months.
Helped by local architects Julia and Matthew, we learned to appreciate the delicate balance between past millennia of civilisation and the surge of current building. The ancient mudstone conceals a labyrinth of caves and tunnels where the population sheltered from Japanese bombing in the 1940s while the city became the temporary capital of China during the hostilities. Now, that bedrock also supports glittering glass and steel towers alongside more traditional homes and businesses.
With some 37 million inhabitants (more than half the total population of the UK), the city is a magnet for those who want to work and share in the benefits of modern growth. Like any other city, there is tension between the demands for excellent work and living conditions and the preservation of authentic local character. We managed to experience both: singing to the echo of the mudstone caves; the dazzling night-time light displays; the traditional flower market with exotic plants and miniature gardens; the superb modern apartments and eclectic backpacker hostel.
Most importantly, of course, were all the wonderful people from the International Women’s Group, the Rotary Club that sponsored our visit and everyone who took part in our cooking videos – professional chefs and home-cooks. Each and every one of them gave us hospitality, kindness and invaluable enthusiasm that we continue to treasure.
And Toby was inspired to add more fabulous drawings to his freelance architectural illustrator portfolio – images rich in detail and atmosphere (www.Tobymelvillebrown.com ).
Next time, see me cooking at the prestigious Intercontinental Hotel with one of their top chefs: an authentic Chinese chicken dish that you can try at home too.
See Toby’s creative process https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=jyJcGAwAIsA and hear his thanks for the truly inspirational trip to China that resulted in his excellent new artworks and the success of his inaugural exhibition. The Holman prize has reached further than could have been imagined. All thanks to the funding from the Chongqing Rotary Club and San Francisco’s Lighthouse organisation
See more of Toby’s work here.